Friday, July 21, 2006

Culloden

Yesterday I stood upon the battlefield of Culloden.

It was a nice warm day--unseasonably warm, in fact. There was a nice breeze (as always), the panoramic view was lovely, and the cars made soft swooshing sounds as they drove by. All around me stretched a three-foot high jungle of brush, thistles, and generally tangled and prickly plants. I was standing on the spot of one of the most famous and bloody Scottish battles, surrounded by the sounds of tourists laughing. I couldn't help but thing how wrong it all was.

Where were the specters of ghostly warriors? Where was the chill fog blowing off the barrows? I wanted to close my eyes and see, overwhelming the present light atmosphere, the sight of two armies arrayed for battle. I wanted to kneel at the stone where a brave Scottish captain died and, just for a moment, mourn the keening loss of that life. I wanted to be jolted out of my apathy, to feel—what? anything else: horror, grief, the weight of history pressing upon me.

Even as I went through the motions of a sightseer (snap a picture; pause, read a signpost; meander on), I wanted my cold, selfish heart to break with the tragedy of this place. Or maybe even that was selfish. Maybe all I really wanted was to have an experience; to feel the ghostly fingers of the past brush my shoulder for a moment; giving me a vision, setting me apart.

Yesterday I stood upon the battlefield of Culloden, and it failed to touch my spirit. I walked off the field, excited at the prospect of a gift shop.